we’re on our way to srinagar from kargil. after the mildly scary zoji la pass we see the prettiest town right there at the bottom. its breathtakingly gorgeous sonmarg, we stop for the night. we reach at sunset and already the duas in the two mosques are overlapping. its crazy_nice.
sonmarg is small but is quite popular with the indian tourist. most use srinagar as their base and come for short 1 or 2 days trips. so there’s plenty of pav bhaji and loads of ponies.
we learn that aside from her crazy beauty, sonmarg is famous for the thajiwas glacier which is just 4km away. hence the ponies, hence the hundred offers to sit on a pony. we say our hundred friendly no-thanks’s and we try to imagine being in the middle of miles and miles of nothing but ice. we are for the first time going to see a glacier!!!
the trail through the valley is beautiful and totally worth it, we picturize a lovely picnic and head on further. at the end of the trail however there is nothing but a few small restaurants and a lone security guard. g is for glacier only na?
the security guy sighs at the beauty of the invisible glacier, he then proceeds to point to a 10x10m area of ice on a nearby mountain. “sheesh” we say. we realise we’ve been had. o well, atleast it was really really pretty.
as we head back, tourists just coming in now, excitedly ask us about the glacier.
we can do nothing but sigh.